#9 Fiber to Yarn/Fabric

 

Fiber to Yarn/Fabric

Gina Christopher


Flax:

Linen fabrics are made from the flax plant. Flax is the only natural fiber still being cultivated on a large scale in Western Europe. The best flax plants are grown between Kahn in France and Amsterdam in Holland where climatic conditions in soil are ideal. The growing cycle of the flax plant is short with only 100 days between sewing and March and harvesting in July. The plant grows to an ideal height of approximately 4 feet. When close to maturity, the flax plant blooms, dotting the fields with blossoms of Violet blue or white. Flax is never cut. It must be uprooted because the fibers are in the stem of the plant and in the roots.

Harvesting is done by mechanical grubbers who pull and lay the flax plant on the fields. During the ratting process, the flax is exposed to moisture to break down the pectins that bind the fibers together in the stem. The flax is spread out on the field exposed to the elements for several weeks. The flax plant is being turned regularly to get dry and getting even ratting process. When the flaxes dry it is removed from the fields in large bales. Scuthcing and hackling are the next mechanical steps in the production process. Flax fibers are separated from the stem. The raw flax fibers are calmed and transformed into very fine fiber ready to be spun into flax yarns. Fibers are spun into yarns of various weights and thicknesses. Bobbins with flax yarns are being delivered as weft and warp yarns to the linen weavers. Before any weaving occurs, linen yarns are examined for strength, evenness, in color.

The first step in the weaving process is the making of the warp beam. Bobbins with warp yarns are placed on a rack and are wound onto a fully automatic and computerized warping machine. Each warp thread on the warp beam must be threaded through a yarn watcher, through a heddle, and through the reed. The warp beams are set up on the weaving looms. Bobbins with weft yarns are placed next to the looms. The left yarns are crossed with the warp yarns at a very high speed. All looms are connected to a central computer monitoring system to detect faults and to do constant quality and efficiency control. The fabric is controlled meter by meter in full width and weaving faults are repaired by hand to ensure a top-quality fabric. Linen fabrics can be sold loom state untreated off the loom. Most of the fabrics, however, get a finishing treatment such as dyeing, bleaching, washing, easy care, fire retardant, or water repellent. The fabric is then rolled, packaged, and sent to a warehouse where they can be stopped and shipped immediately to a consumer.

 


 

NFPA 701:

NFPA 701 is a set of test methods specifically designed for the flame propaganda performance of textiles and films. NFPA 701 focuses on whether a material will burn rapidly, produce dangerous flaming droplets, and whether the flame will self-extinguish after being ignited by a small ignition source. NFPA 701 evaluates the flammability of the material not its fire resistance. In other words, it measures the duration that a material can block the passage of fire. NFPA 701 applies to almost all flexible materials that are vertically hung or used for covering in public spaces. And having a 701 is not applicable for upholstered furniture, wall coverings, or carpeting.


 

One Step Further (Linen’s Flammability):

Linen is made from the flax. The stalks are harvested and formed into fine fibers that hold a natural luster. These fine fibers are made into smooth and lightweight cloth that is well known for its breathable nature and cool surface. The weave of the linen also encourages breathability, fine holes in the weave circulate the air through and around the fabric. This may be wonderful for hot days but a real nightmare for flammability. One linen is ignited, flames will shoot through the fabric at shocking speed, due to the extra circulation of air through the fabric.

 


 

References:

How Linen Is Made

Fabrics. (2020, December 8). Flammable fabrics free fabric samples of fire retardant fabrics. Fabric Blog. https://blog.fabricuk.com/flammable-fabric-facts/

NFPA 701: Standard Methods of fire tests for flame propagation of textiles and films - begoodtex. (n.d.-g). https://begoodtex.com/nfpa-701-fire-test-standard-guide/


Extra Credit Links:

Why I love linen and How to take care of it

Sleeping on Linen


Comments

  1. Anna ShultsMarch 18, 2026 at 6:05 PM

    Gina,
    Your blog post this week does a great job at explaining the step-by-step process of how raw fibers are transformed into usable yarn and eventually into fabric. You described how fibers whether natural or synthetic must first be cleaned, aligned, and prepared before they can be spun. I really took away from your information about the spinning process. And how it's a key stage, where fibers are twisted together to create yarn, giving the material strength and structure. This transformation from loose fibers into continuous strands is essential in textile production.

    Here are some extra videos I found for you to look at as well!
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUhcxT5E860
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqbDlpu3XOc

    ReplyDelete

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